Husband and wife team Stephen Halikas and Christina Haugwitz joined forces with chef Mark Choquette to create the Boathouse Grill. The Boathouse Grill delivers delectable seafood and steak offerings that combine classic elements and fresh flavors in a cozy and comfortable atmosphere perfectly situated along Newport’s scenic lakefront. Photo by Richard Creaser

“In the summer you could just watch the sailboats zig-zagging across the lake,” Christina Haugwitz said.  “It’s just the most perfect spot.”

The location offered co-owners Ms. Haugwitz and her husband, Stephen Halikas, a number of advantages.  Clearly the proximity to the lake made it a near perfect match for a seafood restaurant.  The space it occupies had been a blank canvas awaiting an entrepreneur with the vision and resources to see it through.

“It started with an idea and some drawings,” Mr. Halikas explained.  “We knew what we wanted to create, but we weren’t sure how we would get there.”

Throughout the process the end goal was clear.  The Boathouse Grill would be the kind of place people could go to get away from it all, to celebrate a special occasion or enjoy a quiet night in good company.  The ambience created by toned down shades of stained wood and copper verdigris, coupled with practical and comfortable chairs and bar stools, lends itself well to that comfortable feel.

The real star is and will remain its food.  The focus is on top-quality ingredients augmented with homemade sauces and stocks presented in a way that is both appealing to the eye and the tongue.

“The technology is such that you can flash freeze fish from anywhere in the world and have it brought fresh to your plate,” Mr. Halikas said.  “There really wasn’t anyone around here doing that.”

And therein lies the Boathouse Grill’s strength.  It is not a carbon copy of every other restaurant.  Its menu is tight but varied with a collection of appetizers, salads, entrées, and desserts sure to please most palates.  The restaurant is specifically tailored to individuals who respect and enjoy good food, well made.

Flavor, not flash, rules the day.  The sesame-crusted tuna was a marvel to behold, its tender pink flesh contrasting sharply against the almond tones of the seared sesame seed coating.  The rice was light and pleasant to the mouth, the side of carrots and broccoli cooked to perfection.  The serving size was ample and avoided the tired cliché of the parsley branch and superfluous splotches of oil garnishes.  Good food should and can present a beautiful tableau on its own without extraneous details.

“I’m always looking to see what comes out of this kitchen,” Mr. Halikas said.  “If it doesn’t look right, it doesn’t go out.”

Fortunately Mr. Halikas is blessed with a skilled chef in Mark Choquette.  Mr. Choquette’s eye for detail and commitment to quality allows his food to shine, eliminating the need for distracting elements.

Appreciation for fine food is something that has only grown in recent years, Mr. Halikas said.  Television chefs and the Food Network have exposed people to new and exciting food concepts, expanding their view of what a meal ought to be.

People are less likely to confuse quantity with quality.  A plate mounded with food is good in its own way.  A plate of food that showcases the flavors and textures of its ingredients is something to savor and celebrate.

“If you are just tired and don’t feel like cooking, maybe this isn’t the place for you,” Mr. Halikas said.  “But if you want to get away, feel like you’re someplace else, someplace that makes you happy, you’ve come to the right place.”

The restaurant has experienced some bumps as it prepares for its grand opening, Mr. Halikas concedes.  With every opening, however, service improves and consistency is established.

On this writer’s visit on a Sunday night, the pacing and table service of the meal was surpassed only by its constituent parts.  Every course was plated well and presented in a timely fashion.  There was time enough between each course to talk and savor the flavors of our cocktails.

With plans to expand on the tropical theme of the restaurant’s bar area and a vision for an outdoor patio to further enjoy the lakefront, the Boathouse Grill is Newport’s very own freshwater pearl.